When pairing Champagne and food, the acidity of the wine is key to finding its perfect food partner. There are some classic and extravagant pairings like caviar and oysters, but there are some more unexpected foods that are also a great match. I don’t think that Champagne has to be stuffy and formal at all. It’s always a great time to enjoy bubbles  – and here are some of my favourite pairings, perfect for a casual weekend afternoon or to start your evening with.

Potato Chips – yes, really!

Considering basic wine pairing rules, wines with high acidity pair well with foods with high fat and salt content. Think about a Coca-Cola and potato chips….it’s the same idea, only here, it’s brut Champagne and potato chips. The fat, salt, and crunch of a great potato chip (I like the Cape Cod kettle chip brand) paired with an acidic, bubbly Champagne is heaven. Or if you are a Champagne purist and feel like this is too unconventional, try a Cava or Prosecco. I promise you will be most pleasantly surprised.

Fresh spring rolls with sweet and spicy chili sauce

Here, rather than a marriage of opposites, one can also work with complementary flavors in food and wine pairing. Go with a sweet or semi-sweet Champagne to complement the sweetness of the dipping sauce. Sweetness also makes the chili less aggressive in the mouth. The end result is a fantastic pairing that you will no doubt wish to repeat again and again.

Macaroni & cheese

Champagne with a good old-fashioned homemade macaroni and cheese is a combination not to be missed. In this combination, one must avoid sharp cheeses like aged cheddar. Instead, think mild, buttery and slightly nutty cheeses like smoked gouda. You could go a bit more gourmet and add pancetta or truffles. But I prefer a classic mac and cheese with a buttery, breadcrumb topping. Honestly, for me, it doesn’t get better than this….my two most favorite things in the world, my mother’s mac and cheese recipe and a bottle of brut Champagne. Again, if a high / low pairing like this makes you uneasy (what a waste of an expensive bottle, you say!), you can go with a more value-oriented choice like a classic French Cremant sparkling wine.

Sushi

Sushi and Champagne in my mind are the next classic pairing, à la oysters and caviar. The same principles apply here – the acidic qualities of Champagne paired with seafood. It goes one step further here with the subtle flavors of seaweed and vinegary sushi rice being kicked up a notch, thanks to the acid of the Champagne. Furthermore, the yeasty qualities of a true French Champagne works especially well with the savoury and umami qualities of soy sauce. A traditional brut French Champagne, rather than a Cava or Cremant substitute which lacks the yeasty qualities, works best here.

American-style chilli

The spice and the punch of an American style meat and bean chilli can be greatly enhanced when paired with Champagne. The kick of the chilli powder, cumin and other spices that are often present pair especially well with bubbles. Champagne defuses the chilli’s spicy nature, and the dish takes on a new life. Also, if you like to top your chilli with cheese, again, using the same principle as the mac and cheese above, use a milder cheese like Colby or Monterey Jack so the acid doesn’t “turn” the cheese to bitter.

So really, I think Champagne shouldn’t just be for special occasions. Bubbles make everyone smile, and for this reason, I like to enjoy and serve them regularly. It’s not all about caviar and oysters with Champagne….try the chips or mac and cheese or spring rolls and integrate Champagne snacks and meals into your everyday life with these untraditional but decidedly delicious pairings. Cheers!

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Kappo — in direct translation of the kanji characters — means to cut and to cook. It emphasises the personal attention to culinary detail, with the chef being in tune with the seasonality and tastes of the ingredients used. Hence, the chef holds court not unlike a high-end sushi restaurant. Jiki Miyazawa is no exception. Once you slide the bamboo door to the restaurant, the hinoki counter dominates the interior design. We see a few chefs behind the counter sporting clean white tunics and heads topped with a short white cap —the universal Japanese culinary look of ‘we are serious about what we do’.

Red-faced from being late, we offered our profuse apologies and quickly settled down. The first course or sakizuke, came in the form of poached hotaru ika with issunmame. That went down quickly and well with our Kirin beer, with the interplay between the squid ink and milky bean mush creating such delight. After a brief flurry of activity from the hidden inner kitchen, our steaming hot soup was served – it was a milky lily bulb broth and torched amadai (tile fish). Lunch was proving to be an exercise in self-control as I tried not to consume everything in one hungry gulp. The same amount of self-restraint was needed for the artfully plated salmon, asparagus and topped with aonori (green laver) shown above. The contrast between the mellow fish oil smoothness and the playful character of nutrient rich aonori was just delightful.

After savouring the subtlety of our appetizers, we began to fully enjoy the ambience of the small 10-seater restaurant. High back chairs, medium soft cushions gave us just the right amount of support to feel comfortable. The soft light from the windows and the warm, incandescent downlights illuminated the restaurant in mix of blue and warm tones. And bathed in that cauldron of light was the chef, Miyazawa-san. He looked no more than 35, which is pretty impressive for being a proprietor in Kyoto’s competitive culinary landscape. After all, it takes 10 to 15 years to master Kappo cuisine. Miyasawa-san was now busy preparing the binchotan (charcoal) for his signature dish, yaki goma tofu (grilled sesame curd – pictured above). With a long pair of bamboo chopsticks in hand, he quickly toasted the square goma tofu blocks and filled the 200-square foot restaurant with the charred scent of sesame.

When the goma tofu curd was perfectly browned, he placed each block into a flat, rust-coloured ceramic bowl with a small dimpled centre and proceeded to pour thick sesame cream (seasoned with honey and salt) and lashings of freshly grated sesame. If only you could smell it now! As the enamel of our pearly whites broke through the thin, slightly powdery skin, it unlocked a creamy centre, not unlike that of an Epoisses de Bourgogne cheese. In place of a strong pungent nose, the mix of the soft goma tofu, grated sesame and the thick sauce of sweet sesame cream delivered a taste so divine, we relished each and every mouthful. The secret of this delicious goma tofu, lies in the blend of kuzu (a natural binding agent), konbu (seaweed) and grated sesame. Ah ha! There’s no soya bean used at all…

While the goma tofu represented the ‘yama’ (the peak) of our experience, the creations that were to come next were certainly not a steep descent from heaven. The konabe (small hot pot) was a deliciously starchy broth of Kujonegi (soft starchy leek – pictured above) topped with deepfied iwashi fry was pure comfort food. Kujonegi is a native Kyoto produce and there’s even a fable about how the famous Kukai (the great Japanese monk who brought Mahāvairocana Tantra from Tang dynasty China) escaped the jaws of a large snake by hiding in a field of kujunegi. But there’s no hiding our satisfaction with this wonderful concoction of delicate leek flavours . Somehow, kujyonegi has a more rounded taste than let’s say a British leek.

What came next was an exercise in rice appreciation. 3 dollops of rice, each with decreasing levels of moistness, was served separately in a large ceramic bowl. The idea was to akin to pouring Burgundy in a wide body glass so the nose of the occupying content reaches the all important olfactory senses. I could smell how the different levels of moisture affects the flavour of rice, with the wettest version being the sweetest to my nose. After picking up the remnants of the rice granules from the ceramic bowl, we began to ogle at the bowl itself. The antique bowl, with shades of rust and gray, was very thinned walled and displayed a gorgeous patina inside. The combination of Chef Miyazawa’s artful rice preparation and the use of artisan ceramic pieces was perfection indeed. Finally we were asked which rice style we preferred and were each served a fresh bowl filled with our choice. I really enjoyed having it with the jyako chirimen (iwashi fry with sansho spice).

After the rice disgustation, we sampled the season’s best strawberries and oranges, finishing with a sakura-shaped wafer filled with Japanese azuki bean. Phew! What a tour of the season’s finest. I asked if I could have the day’s menu and Chef Miyazawa was kind enough to spend the next five minutes writing it down for me on traditional handmade Japanese paper (washi). When the bill came, we had our next surprise! At only 4480yen a head, it proved that regular consumption of excellent Japanese cuisine does not need the use of prosthetics for greedy souls like me.

Jiki Miyazawa
533-1 Yaoyacho, Sakaimachi-dori Shijo Agaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto
Tel: +81 (0)75 213 1326, +81 (0)75-213-1326
www.jiki-miyazawa.com

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Reblochon is from the Alps region of Haute-Savoie in France. It is a washed-rind and smear-ripened soft cheese made from raw cow’s milk. Because of the smear-ripened process (this means a solution of bacteria or fungi is smeared onto the cheese), it imparts a pungent flavour on the rind. As Reblochon is made from unpasteurised milk, it gives the cheese a nutty taste and creamy texture. When you purchase your Reblochon, It is important to check the packaging. On the packaging, there should be an A.O.P. (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) logo.

In the 1980s, to encourage the sales of Reblochon, the Union Interprofessional Reblochon (what a cool union) developed a dish called tartiflette, which is essentially a cheese and potato nest. Traditionally, lardon or bacon is also added into this dish. However I omitted it here in order to make the recipe more vegetarian friendly. The pungent flavour from Reblochon somehow oozes away, leaving a beautiful potato nest which has a crunchy crust, and a rich and creamy soft bottom. If you are lucky enough to savour the baked rind (I always look out for the corner piece which has the most rind), it is both crisp and cheesy. Though it has a fancy name, tartiflette is quite an easy dish to make and I am sure it will be a crowd favourite at the dinner table.

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I recently stumbled upon the joys of kinako latte at a miniscule cafe in Arashiyama, Kyoto called kyo no cha no nagomi. We had stopped to taste their fluffy little squares of fat-free green tea and soy milk cakes (incidentally, our toddler, T adored their strawberry version). And since I was slightly obsessed with tasting matcha lattes on this trip (mostly thanks to my culinary goddess of a sister-in-law’s frequent mentions of how she loves having them at Starbucks in Tokyo), I decided to be adventurous and try a kinako latte. Before I knew it, I was hooked!

Kinako (黄粉) is roasted whole soy flour and has a gorgeously nutty flavour. I really enjoy it in warabi mochi (especially from the stall at Nishiki Market in Kyoto which sells it), in ice cream and sprinkled over Japanese parfaits. Simply a combination of kinako, milk and a touch of sugar, kinako latte contains no coffee and is caffeine free (a boon for expectant mothers trying hard to eliminate caffeine from their diets). It tastes almost like a malted drink; just the thing for a cold Spring morning or a rainy day in the tropics.

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Dining with toddlers when travelling is a world apart from eating out when it’s just you and your hunny bunny. On previous trips to Japan, I would have made reservations at cult places I’ve been dying to try or restaurants that I already love weeks in advance. Because many of my favourite haunts are uber-popular, booking ahead is essential. However, with the tiny one in tow, not only could I not plan ahead, but the kinds of restaurants we visited were very different. 

Eating out with the youngster
My favourite kinds of restaurants in Japan are small, kappo (counter-only) places. Most of these serve only one menu, with a few variations depending on how much you are willing to spend. But such establishments are definitely not toddler friendly. Try asking the cult restaurant that specializes in one specific kind of food if they’d be cool to make something else for your fussy little boy, and you’ll most likely get a stern “Dame! (“no”)” back from a slightly offended chef or restaurateur.

As every parent of a young’un knows, their tastes can be somewhat bewildering and aggravating. Some days they’re happy to eat anything. Other days, they want only one specific things. And usually, they aren’t super adventurous. My son, for example, while willing to try most things, has extremely strong opinions on what he eats. If he doesn’t love something, he won’t eat it. Which can be a real pain in the tush.

Anyway, the list below consists of places that both we and the fussy Master T enjoyed dining in. Depending on your own child’s tastebuds, they may or may not work for you. But at least you’ll know they’re kid-friendly.

Trattoria Pizzeria Amore
One of T’s favourite foods is pizza. And even then, he’s fussy about the quality. If the crust is too soggy or happens to be charred just a tad too much, he won’t eat it. Fortunately, the pizzas served up in this chic trattoria and pizzeria on Kiyamachi dori were just right. In fact, on our first visit (we went twice), T was so thrilled he ate three-quarters of an entire pie. And then followed that up with a scoop of vanilla gelato.

The ground floor of Amore is divided two spaces. The front is an industrial-chic bar with high tables and a cool urban vibe. Go back into the restaurant, past the kitchen, and you’ll discover a charming dining room with white-washed wooden walls and gorgeous views of the Kamo river. There’s also a deck, which was closed when we visited–I can imagine it would be wonderful to sit out there in the summer. Just past the entrance, there is a staircase going to a second floor, but I don’t know if it’s used for dining or offices. When we visited, it was definitely off-limits.

Amore has a great big pizza menu. But it also has a fabulous à la carte trattoria menu as well. While T was happy devouring his pizzas, S and I satisfied ourselves with a range of seafood dishes. The clams were gorgeous. The frito misto was sensational. S declared it one of the best she’s ever eaten. And I loved the prawns with fettucine in a tomato-cream sauce.

Amore quite simply is a great place with a cool vibe, wonderful food, and really nice staff. This was easily T’s favourite restaurant in Kyoto.

Amore is located on Kiyamachi dori, south of Shijo-dori. As you walk south, you’ll pass by one bridge that crosses the river. It’s just a minute or two after that.

Popeye
I had read about Popeye in a Japanese magazine devoted to cafes in Kyoto. “Read” may be stretching the truth a bit since I can’t read or write Japanese. What motivated me to check out this cool cafe, nestled in a tiny alley off of the pedestrian Shinkyogoku shopping street was a gorgeous picture of a hambaagu (hamburger) rice set. T loves burgers and at home he usually has burgers with rice. So, we definitely knew that we had to find a good hambaagu rice place in Kyoto. The fact that the cafe was super central and easy to find was the second reason we decided to have lunch here. And I am very glad we did. The food and the service was simply fantastic.

Popeye is small. On the ground floor, there is just one table and a counter. On the second floor, there are several low tables–the patrons dining there sit on the floor. The lunch menu consists of 3 sets. T, S and I, of course, took the hambaagu rice set. What’s nice is that the burger patty is only made when you order, so you know it’s fresh. The set consisted of a the burger, covered in a nice rich sauce (which we had asked to be served on the side for T), a cabbage salad, some potato salad, some macaroni salad and a bowl of rice with pickles. Perfectly satisfying.

To get to Popeye, head into the Shinkyogoku shopping street from Shijo dori. Turn right at the first alley. It’s on your right a few steps into the alley.

Yakitori Tarokichi
We walked into this yakitori joint partly to get out of the rain. I had originally planned for us to check out a small cult unagi place off Yamato-oji dori a friend had told me about. Idiot that I am, I thought we could just rock up and get a table. The manager, when we opened the door and asked for a table, gave me one of those looks and said, “It’s sakura season… we are fully booked… thank you.” And closed the door on me. Since it was drizzling, we decided to head down the street towards our rented house (which was on the same street) and check out one of the many restaurants along the way.

We had walked by Yakitori Tarokichi previously, so when we spotted it, I knew I wanted to go there. It’s a charming, urban yet traditional and modest little place with the main grill in the front room, surrounded by counter seats, and a few small tables in the back. Fortunately, they had translated their whole menu into English so ordering was a breeze. We had a delicious meal there. As with most yakitori places, the bulk of the menu was chicken, but they did have a few pork dishes and several nice salads and grilled vegetable options. The atmosphere was very laid back and T had a fun time exploring the restaurant.

Yakitori Tarokichi is located on Yamato-oji dori. To get there, simply head south on Yamato-oji dori from Shijo dori (in Gion). When you get to the first intersection, it is on the southeast corner.

Kimura Sukiyaki Ten
Because we’ve had sukiyaki dinners with T with success, S wanted to take T to have sukiyaki in Kyoto. We decided to check out Kimura Sukiyaki Ten because we had read that it was large, extremely informal and very affordable (no point taking the toddler anywhere uppity and expensive, yah?). It was also very centrally-located, right along the pedestrian Teramachi shopping street.

I do have to admit that Kimura feels touristy. But the beef was very good and the staff didn’t mind that T wanted to run around the restaurant (despite our attempts to wrestle him down). And as promised, the prices were good, less than half what S and I have usually spent on sukiyaki in Kyoto in the past.

To get there, simply head north on Teramachi dori from Shijo dori. It will be on your left after walking for about 2-3 minutes.

Cafe Violon
The charming Cafe Violon was a few minutes walk from our rented machiya. It was also the one cafe in the neighborhood that our landlord had recommended for breakfast. Which is what we went there for. Cafe Violon opens at 9am and serves just very affordable one breakfast set. As pictured, you get two slices or buttered toast, a tiny salad, a hard boiled egg and your choice of coffee drinks. The coffees here were all especially well made. And our little guy T loved the large fluffy slices of toast. On our first visit, he was two-fisting them, having grabbed a slice with each hand and eating them both in alternating bites.

The cafe itself looked like something from an old movie (with the exception of the state-of-the- art stereo speakers on the bar). There’s a long bar that runs down the right wall of this narrow space with banquettes along the right wall. From what I could tell, Violon is one of those quirky Japanese places that transitions artfully from cafe to cocktail bar as the day turns to night.

Violon is located on Matsubara dori, east of Yamato-oji dori. Walk east from Yamato-oji dori and it will be on your left after a 3-5 minute walk.

Inoda Coffee
Inoda Coffee is a true Kyoto institution with branches all over the city. It’s very old school–almost theme parkish. But the coffee is great and the food is, while basic, actually pretty good. The menu consists of sandwiches, pastas, salads, cakes and ice cream desserts, so there’s definitely something your kids will enjoy.

We had stopped into the Kiyomizudera branch for a midday snack (the delicious club sandwich pictured above). We had a perfect table, right by the window, offering us gorgeous views of the cherry blossoms in the garden next door to the cafe. We had also snuck in at the perfect time. By the time we left, there was a huge line of women, both young and old, waiting for tables to have their mid-afternoon tea and cake breaks.

Cafe Kawa
Cafe Kawa is a sleek, French-run cafe on Kiyamachi, with great views of the Kamo River. There is both French and Japanese food available here. Honestly, we only stopped in for drinks and the view. But I am sure, judging by what we saw people munching on around us, that the grub is well worth trying.

Getting there is easy. Kawa is located on Kiyamachi dori, just a minute’s walk north of Matsubara dori.

Patisserie au Grenier D’Or
Wanna hop up the kids on sugar? Heh heh. We stopped into this cult pastry shop one afternoon while T was snoozing away. S had read about this patisserie, helmed by Chef Kinzo Nishihara, some years back but for some reason we never made our way there. The Patisserie au Grenier D’Or is famous for re-igniting the passion for French patisserie among foodies in Kyoto when it opened back in 2001.

You can purchase yummy-looking desserts at the counter or head up to the salon du thé and enjoy a leisurely drink accompanied by several sweet treats. Since S was carrying T around in the Ergo, we figured that our only option was takeaway. S purchased their uber-popular chocolate mousse pyramid and a milk pudding while I picked up a pound cake for breakfast the next day.

The Patisserie au Grenier D’Or is located on Sakai-machi dori, north of Nishiki Market.

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My wife S and I have been to Kyoto many times. But until this past April, we’d never gone there with a young child in tow (of course, since we only had our first child two years ago, that would kind of make sense). This most recent trip, because we had brought along our son T, was remarkably different from all of our previous trips. Our schedule, because we had to plan everything around his schedule, was different. Where we went and what we did each day, because we wanted to do and see things that would be fun for him, was different. And where we ate, because we wanted to go to places that served food he liked, was different.

We had a good time. More importantly, T had a terrific time and, from what we could tell at least, really enjoyed himself. While Kyoto is a city known for culture, history, handicraft, and food, it is also a great city to visit with kids. There are a lot of outdoor playgrounds and a lot of things you can do with young ones. Below, I have listed the things that we enjoyed the most. This list, of course, is by no means an exhaustive list of child-friendly activities. It is just the few things we experienced and enjoyed the most. I already have a list of things we want to do with T on future trips, like strawberry picking for example, which we just didn’t have time for this time.

Experiences / Attractions

Nara Park and feeding the deer.

Of all the things we did with T, the one thing he’s told us he enjoyed the most was feeding the deer in Nara Park. Now, some friends have pointed out that the practice of feeding the deer in Nara is ruining the ecosystem of the area because the “deer senbei” (the crackers that visitors purchase to feed them) aren’t meant to be part of the deer’s natural diet. Intellectually, I can understand this. But, visiting, interacting with and feeding the senbei to the deer there is just sooooooooo much fun. For adults as well as for kids.

Nara was the capital of Japan from 710 to 784. It’s a small city that is easy for tourists to navigate their way around. It is home to some very well-known and often visited temples, shrines and gardens, many of which are in or around Nara Park. Getting to Nara from Kyoto is a cinch. Take the Kintetsu Railway express train from Kyoto Station straight to the Kintetsu Nara Station. It’s a quick 35 minute journey which deposits you right at the western edge of Nara Park. From there, you only have to walk east for a few minutes and you’ll find yourself both in the park and face to face with some rather friendly, slightly over-zealous and very greedy deer.

(We decided to walk past the deer hounding visitors at the edge of the park and walk further into the park, making our way towards Todaiji Temple. The deer are all over the park, so you don’t feel like you have to stop and feed the first ones you come across.)

One packet of deer senbei usually runs 150 Yen. From the moment you buy a packet, deer will start following you, and if you don’t feed them quickly enough for their liking, nudge you and even occasionally nip at you. So, it is advisable not to pass let your children hold onto the senbei or feed the deer unsupervised. When you’re not holding onto the biscuits, the deer will treat you with a mild interest (or really disinterest); they are actually very tame, and very friendly.

Arashiyama

I’ve already written heaps about Arashiyama. Not only is it a fun place for adults, but kids love visiting this much beloved tourist area as well. T had a great time looking at all the stuff for sale in the boutiques lining the main road and playing along the banks of the Hozu River.

Arashiyama Monkey Park

Also in the area, and the main reason we went there, is a the Arashiyama Monkey Park. The monkey park is home to approximately 130 Japanese macaques, whom many call “snow monkeys”. This sanctuary is located on the top of a hill, accessible via a 20 minute hike. There is a large clearing which affords amazing views of Kyoto and which the monkeys roam around freely within. And a small wooden house, in which visitors can rest and from which one can feed the monkeys.

Feeding should only be done from within the safety of the shelter. You can purchase diced apples or nuts. Because the monkeys do tend to get a little grabby, it is advised to place the food in the palm of your hand, as opposed to holding it with your finger tips. The monkeys cling onto bars that enclose the windows of the shelter and happily accept as much food as you’re willing to buy for them.

Not only is this fun for the whole family, the hike up and down to the park is just beautiful. We went during cherry blossom season, which was simply gorgeous. I would love to return again in the Fall when the leaves are all orange and red.

Getting to the Monkey Park is easy. From Arashiyama station, walk towards the Hozu River. Cross the river and turn right. You’ll see a sign for the Park after a few steps.

Hirakata Park

Hirakata Park is an amusement park outside of Osaka. From Kyoto, if you hop on an express train via the Keihan Railway line from Gion, you can get there in half an hour, which makes it a very convenient place to visit. Since we’ve returned to Singapore, S hasn’t been able to stop talking about how much fun she and T had visiting Hirakata Park, mostly because the number of rides suitable for toddlers was quite remarkable.

T had a grand old time running us back and forth between rides. Once he had established his favourites, mama or papa had to go on them with him over and over again, which honestly, we didn’t mind doing at all. We also liked that the Park was clean and open, affording us a lot of open space in which our crazy little kid could run around and exhaust himself.

My only caution is that the food we ate there–we went to the curry house on property–is quite awful. My advice is to get your hand stamped (for re-entry), leave the Park, have a great, cheap, local meal somewhere near by and then head back into the Park if your kids still want to ride more rides.

There are also fun rides for older kids and parents. Once T fell asleep, I decided it was my turn and checked out some of the Park’s more thrilling roller coasters.

As said, getting there is easy. Hop an express train from the Keihan Railway Gion-Shijo station going south. Ride until Hirakatashi and then transfer to a local train for one stop. Get off at Hirakatakoen station and the Park is a three minute walk away.

Kyoto Aquarium

Kyoto’s aquarium, located in Umekoji Park, only opened in March last year. It’s a wonderful, new and shiny attraction that’s fun for kids and adults alike. We visited on a drizzly Sunday morning and the place was packed. Irregardless, we had a great time.

The aquarium’s main pool is thrilling. We and many other families whiled away a good portion of our visit staring up at all the fish and other aquatic life swimming around in this giant tank. T especially loved the sea animal zone and the fur seals that swim directly over and around you; the penguin zone; and the invertebrates area (he’s currently obsessed with jellyfish). We also enjoyed the dolphin show despite the fact that it was entirely in Japanese.

Getting to the aquarium is pretty easy. There are detailed instructions on this page here: http://www.kyoto-aquarium.com/en/access/index.html

Kiyomizudera Temple area

This is one of Kyoto’s cutest little areas. A small hilly tourist enclave, with one of the city’s most beautiful temples as its focal point, S and I have always loved coming here and checking out all the food shops, handicraft shops, cafes, and souvenir shops. Seeing this fun neighbourhood through T’s eyes made the experience all the more enjoyable.

This area is also home to several of the most famous cherry blossom viewing spots in Kyoto, so it was understandably packed when we visited. But the sakura were truly breathtaking and both mama and baby were thrilled by the view. T was even happier when we gave him a taste of some sakura soft serve ice cream I had bought for myself. In fact, he liked it so much he refused to give it back to me, shoving as much as he could into his face and down his little gullet.

I’ll be following this post up tomorrow with some recommendations for eating around Kyoto with really young kids. So please stay tuned.

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I was very fortunate to be in Tokyo recently, at the height of the sakura season. But the highlight of my visit was not the blossoming sakura but the simply sublime sushi at Kanesaka in Ginza. You may know that the well-known Shinji at Raffles Hotel in Singapore is actually a branch of Kanesaka in Ginza.  I thought I should go straight to the mother restaurant  in Ginza to check out the Kanesaka experience.  I had a fabulous time and I would certainly make another visit, this time with my family.  Some of my friends declare that Shinji  in Singapore is better but I think one cannot beat the feel of actually being in Ginza itself.

Like many famous sushi restaurants in Tokyo, Kanesaka is tucked in the basement of an ordinary commercial building and does not look particularly impressive from the outside.  But once I descended the stairs and settled into the very small dining room, I had the cozy feeling of being in the chef’s home.  I chose the smaller of the two lunch menus but I could hardly finish the twenty something items that were served.  The sushi chef who served me had actually worked at Shinji in Singapore.  He spoke good English and kept me entertained with his insightful commentary about the various dishes.

I am not going to describe every dish I had at Kanesaka because that will take the mystery and magic out of the experience. But here are some highlights.  The menu began with  an ice-cream-like Hokkaido uni served on thinly sliced sweet cuttlefish.  This was followed by abalone and octopus steamed with sake and seaweed, which was soft and succulent. Then came slices of mackerel, which I was told was aged for three days in a “secret” sauce.  After this, the chef took out a huge Hokkaido scallop and served me just two slices. It was very crunchy and sweet.  I wish I could have had more but then came the sushi, in rapid succession. The highlight was three different types of tuna: lean tuna, which was red and shiny, followed by medium fatty tuna and then a very marbled fatty tuna. It was like a vertical tasting of tuna! The climax was the uni sushi (I can never have enough of uni) I also enjoyed the horse mackerel, served with chives and also the unagi. Actually, frankly, everything I had at Kanesaka was subtle, sublime and superb, and I would certainly return the next chance I get.

Sushi Kanesaka
Misuzu Building
8-10-3 Ginza, Chuo-ku
Tokyo 1040061
Telephone:  +81 3-5568-4411

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Riding on the wave of my last post, where I disclosed my hubby’s peculiar fondness for dolloping peanut butter in his cheeseburgers, I decided to explore more deeply, this pairing of the saltiness of meat together with peanut butter. It brought me back in time, to a possibly better time when bell-bottoms were très chic, when there was glory in the excess, when Elvis sang, and dearly loved a peanut butter, bacon and banana sandwich.

Most people I spoke with about this sandwich idea made faces I wouldn’t soon forget. But it isn’t that inconceivable really, considering we love bacon with our maple syrup-soaked pancakes. Plus, most of us are already familiar with the more PG combo of honey, banana and peanut butter (pictured below), which my hubby heartily devoured as his lunch the other day. But when I mentioned that I’d be including crispy bacon the next time I make it, he was so delirious he almost fell off his chair.

I hate to admit this on a food blog, but I’ve been off pork for two years (I developed an aversion to the meat since I was expecting my daughter C) despite it having been one of my favourite meats before she was conceived. Nonetheless, for the greater purpose of this post, I made two proper Elvises (main picture) and ate it with my hubby. I didn’t expect to enjoy it because I feared it would be overwhelmingly porky, but the salty bacon juxtaposed with the warm peanut butter and oozy banana, created a symphony unlike any other in my mouth. There were crunchy, creamy, savoury, sticky, sweet elements in every mouthful. It was immensely satisfying and enjoyable (partly attributed to the guilt of eating something so sinful), to say the least.

It’s not everyday that I recommend this, but you might want to use the trashiest white supermarket loaf you can find for this sandwich, because I don’t think Elvis was the kind of guy who worried if his fibre intake for the day was optimal. Unfortunately I didn’t have any on hand and my multi-grain slices made me feel like I’d done injustice to the man himself. Inauthenticity aside, it is still a darn good meal, best eaten just as it comes off the stove, hunched over the kitchen counter, in solitude, save for an ice cold beer.

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As mentioned in an earlier post, my wife and I decided to take our two year old son to Kyoto for a weeklong holiday. Because we wanted to visit during sakura (cherry blossom) season, we actually booked our tickets almost a year ago and started looking for places to stay, at the recommendation of friends in Kyoto, in early September. Because sakura season (which is the end of March and early April) is so popular, most places get snapped up months in advance. I actually advice booking your own accommodations no later than August the previous year if you can plan that far in advance.

When we were trying to decide where to stay, after considering several different hotel or ryokan options, S and I finally settled on the idea of renting a house or apartment for the week. Given the needs of a toddler, we felt that made more sense. We could cook breakfast or dinner for him if need be. We could do laundry, thus reducing the weight of our own luggage. And, theoretically, we’d have more space for him to run around in.

Additionally, once I started researching holiday homes and apartments in Kyoto, S and I both loved the idea of staying in a renovated/restored machiya (a traditional wooden townhouse) in Gion–the old historic district famous for its heritage buildings, temples and geishas–or by the Kamo River. There are many such properties being advertised on various websites right now. Some affordable, some ultra luxurious and very expensive. Picking the one that is best for you will come down to price, location, availability and a careful reading of the reviews that almost always accompany each house’s listing.

From the moment S and I saw Tokuji Tanaka’s beautiful little Machiya, which he calls “The Gion House”, we were sold. The exterior was charming. The interiors clean and bright. We loved the Yakusugi solid wood dining table. The Shiragaki ceramic bathtub was the icing on the cake that prompted us to email him immediately. Amazingly, the house was available during our dates and Tanaka-san generously offered to set up a baby cot for T.

Tanaka-san’s machiya was perfect in so many ways. The location was simply amazing, nestled at the intersection of Yamato-oji dori and Yasaka dori. Walk west two blocks and you’re at the Kamo River. Cross the river and you’re at the Kiyamachi dining area. Walk north ten minutes and you’re around the corner from the Shijo and Kawaramachi intersection. Walk east from the house and you’ll immediately face the south side of Kennin-ji Temple. Keep walking east 10 minutes and you’ll find yourself at Kiyomizudera Temple. Seriously, for us, the location was simply perfect.

The house fabulously offered the best of old and new. While the structure and design was that of a traditional Japanese townhouse, it also boasted very modern amenities, from a digital door lock to an automated system that would fill and heat the Japanese bathtub for you with a single press of a button. Tanaka-san also ensured that the appliances were modern and worked well. We used the rice cooker and washer-dryer extensively without any problems. And the whole house has its own strong WiFi network.

Tanaka-san also provides a few guide books for his guests as well as a detailed instruction manual for living in the machiya. He also included suggestions for a neighboring cafe for breakfast and a local supermarket–which had amazing produce for half the price of the supermarket in Isetan.

The house itself is not large. The ground floor has the living-dining area, kitchen, small outdoor zen garden and the bathroom. The upstairs area, which is essentially one large space, is for sleeping. The washer-dryer is also upstairs. In comparison with a hotel, the layout is akin to a large duplex suite.

Because we had a fridge and a kitchen, S and I decided to cook dinner for ourselves and T on two of the nights we were in town. On the first night, T had grilled buri with rice while S and I had rice bowls topped with seasoned toro, negi, shiso and ikura. We washed this down with some award-winning local sake. On the second night, we fed T some teriyaki chicken while we had grilled wagyu steaks with local tomatoes, cabbage salad, kimchi, pickled cucumbers, onsen tamago and rice. And of course, more sake. We loved that we could stay in and cook. On previous vacations, we’d go to places like Nishiki market or the food halls of department stores and whine about how much we’d love to buy and cook up all the amazing produce spread before us. Well, by staying in this machiya, we could finally do that.

After this stay, S has decided that Tanaka-san’s Gion House is going to be her home away from home in Kyoto whenever possible. It really was, for us at least, the perfect little hideaway in one of our favourite cities in the world.

Oh, Tanaka-san also owns another property, a machiya in Arashiyama. Arashiyama, as I’ve written about before, is the second most popular tourist area in Kyoto. It really is a beautiful, idyllic area in the Western part of the region. From what I can see from his website, the Arashiyama machiya is as, if not more, stunning than his Gion House. And it’s even been registered officially as an “Important Cultural Properties of Kyoto” by the Kyoto City Government. Check out the site for yourself here: http://arashiyamahanare.jimdo.com/

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Experiencing The Ledbury in London is like taking a hike in the wild. For one, traveling there takes you out of Zone 1 and into raw Westbourne Park (or Notting Hill, depending on which line you’re taking), where the streets are mercifully quiet and the grass in the gardens of the low-rise housing developments is untrimmed. For another, the typically cheery London weather (read: rainy with biting winds) made my girlfriend K and I look like a pair of inept hipster hunter-gatherers after the brisk walk from the tube station to Ledbury Road. Then there was the food itself; each of the eight courses on our lunch tasting menu took us on a sojourn, past bubbling rivers, through pungent loam, into the very heart of some unnamed countryside.

I’d like to say that The Ledbury serves distinctly British cuisine, except I don’t quite know what the phrase ‘British cuisine’ means, exactly. My guess is it’s hearty, deeply engaging, almost rustic, as is befitting a country – and city, in London’s case – with such  textured history. That’s what my meal that wet March Thursday felt like, though. If my dinner at Le Sergent Recruteur in Paris was amusingly cerebral, The Ledbury was an entirely different animal; earnestly and raucously so.

Quintessentially British? Perhaps, but Brett Graham isn’t a typical British chef, mostly because he’s Australian. Not that he doesn’t have any local cred. After a great start to his career in Newcastle (the other Newcastle) and Sydney, he moved to the less sunny pastures of England, where he’s been based for more than ten years now. It’s a well-oiled machine he’s running at The Ledbury – the restaurant earned the first of its two Michelin stars about a year after it opened in 2005, and was ranked 14th in last year’s San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

My tasting menu was low in pretension, but bursting with big-bellied flavor. Chef Graham’s technique is, as expected, faultless, but at all times he prefers to keep things understated to the point of anonymity. You don’t think about the beautiful knife-work when eating a delicate tartare of oyster, horseradish and dill, even though it was his idea to turn the slurptastic bivalve experience into something infinitely more refined; you don’t marvel at the masterful flame-grilling of mackerel, nor at the perfectly pickled vegetables on the plate, because you’re trying very hard not to eat the entire fillet in one glorious, oleaginous mouthful.

Other dishes, such as the curd of Buffalo milk from Hampshire (pictured above), let you appreciate the beauty of British produce. Wildly creamy, the curd sat below a thin layer of warm onion broth, which itself sat below a forager’s trio of mushroom, dill and onion, and was accompanied by thin fingers of toast with Saint-Nectaire cheese (see second image) from Auvergne and shaved black truffle. Quite simply the most outdoorsy dish of the meal, it was also my favorite. It reminded me of the garden of a family friend’s suburban London house I stayed at when I was ten, mossy and vibrant with all kinds of fungi and herbs.

Besides the occasional cheese and vegetable, chef Graham doesn’t venture too far from his current home country for inspiration. Sam, the excellent head waiter, was almost apologetic when he told us that the brilliant mustard-coloured leek that came with our grilled turbot (pictured below) was not from the United Kingdom, as is normally the case, but from France, due to issues with the crop quality at the time. He was less remorseful when he presented me a plate of medium-rare Berkshire muntjac daubed with a sauce of blood-red rhubarb. “You know Bambi? Well, that’s the exact breed of deer this is,” he told me, not without a slightly worrying hint of glee. I felt like an unpardonable carnivore as I wolfed down the thick, juicy ovals; a feeling compounded by the rather accusing eyes of K, who had ordered the vegetarian tasting menu. Nevertheless, it was a great unusual dish, a bestial shock to my beef-jaded palate.

The tail-end of my meal brought with it a series of treats. First, a complimentary glass of Recioto di Soave from Veneto, courtesy of our sommelier, who had persuaded me – rightly so – to take the plunge and order a glass of savoury Austrian Saint Laurent to keep me going through my lunch. Second, an additional dessert, a brown sugar custard so bloody good it made our previous one, and indeed, almost all other desserts, seem inadequate in comparison. And third, a quick chat with chef Graham himself in between preparations for dinner service. Chummy and completely egoless, he seemed genuinely interested in the restaurant scene in Asia, but work had foiled any attempts for an extended holiday. “I’m just too bloody busy, you know?”

Given The Ledbury’s success, it isn’t surprising. It takes a lot of time to source the best ingredients and mould them into a menu as chockfull of character as London showers and  Sir John Soane’s Museum. It takes a lot of time to be an invisible guide, taking diners on a massively curated tour of the local and continental taste landscape, bringing them to all your familiar haunts, then stepping back to let them enjoy the moment.

Quintessentially British? Maybe.

The Ledbury
127 Ledbury Road
Notting Hill, London, United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7792 9090
www.theledbury.com

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