Fresh catch off the coast of Lima, Peru

Posted on May 13, 2013 by Janice

Boats on the dock in PucusanaCebiche is Peru’s national dish.

Also spelled ceviche, seviche, or sebiche, the former being the English-speaking community’s preference, probably because of the pronunciation: SAY-VEE-CHAY.

Before being offered at tapas establishments, mid-range restaurants, bistros, and even fine dining locales, the simple cebiche is, and always will be, a seaside snack. Coastal Peruvians, like me, know that the freshest fish comes in that very morning, hence eating a cebiche should happen by lunch time, not later.  That tradition is changing as more and more restaurants serve cebiche as an appetizer or an entrée during dinner service.

I was fortunate to spend my childhood summers in Pucusana, a fishing village located fifty kilometres south of Lima. The port sees hundreds of boats arrive at the crack of dawn, packed with men and the reaping of that day’s best catch.  Pucusana is the perfect scenario to showcase the humble and delightful origins of cebiche.  It is a very busy place during the summer, due to its proximity to Lima, and as the years pass, the number of food stalls along the seaside keep increasing.  From fruit vendors, to ice cream stands, shaved ice, and even boiled corn on the cob with Serrano cheese. Yet the highlight is, and always will be, the stands, carts, and kiosks that sell cebiche.

Beautiful, plump, made to order with fish fresh from the pier, caught that very morning, sold just a few meters away from the sea.  Raw fish is cooked naturally when marinated in lime juice, spiced with Peruvian aji (chilli) and Spanish onion, accompanied by some choclo (white Peruvian corn with large kernels) and a slice or two of sweet potato to counterbalance the acid and heat of the dish. The leche de tigre marinade (tiger’s milk) is equally as important as the rest of the dish.  Not only does it provide the robustness to the dish, and reinforce how refreshing a cebiche can be on a hot summer’s day, but it is sometimes served or sold separately, to serve, among other things, as a hangover cure.

Pucusana Cebiche

People like Doña Elvira sell cebiche and are passing down the tradition to their family (daughters, sons, grandchildren) to make cebiche by the beach the same way they’ve always made it.  As with any good rendition, the key words are simple and fresh.   At the stalls in Pucusana, you can see the different spices and condiments to add to the dish as it is prepared right in from of your eyes: ginger, coriander, yellow chilli, hot rocoto chili, garlic, a good heap of salt to accompany the red onions, the flowing sour lime juice.  The other element that’s always present is cancha – toasted chulpe corn, essential for added saltiness and crunch.

In the words of Peru’s most famous chef, Gaston Acurio, “If the fish is fresh…there’s no such thing as a bad cebiche”.

As a Limeña (Lima native), I believe that enjoying a cebiche at the beach, sitting in the sand, or next to the pier, watching the ocean and kids at play, hearing the seagulls call as the pelicans fly by is a quintessentially coastal experience no one should miss.  With an icy cold Inca Kola (Peruvian soda) or a beer in one hand, and a fork in the other, the day is at its best.

My story on Peru’s national dish will hopefully take you on a journey.  From the humble beginnings of the traditional cebiche made-to order by the ports, along the beaches of Peru, to trendy cebicherias in Lima and abroad.  Over the next few weeks, I’ll be showcasing where this dish comes from, the different takes on it, and then feature appetizing interviews with Peruvian chefs making a name for themselves around the world, from Peru to Singapore, to the US and the UK.

¡Buen Provecho!

And more food along the boardwalk in pucusana

Janice

About Janice Espa

Janice is a girl from Lima, Peru who loves a good cebiche and a glass of dry Riesling. She travels the world (often for food or to check out new restaurants) and lives in Australia. Janice tries to learn about different countries through cuisine, and takes advantage of Sydney’s multiculturalism by exploring gastronomy in all of its forms. Grower’s markets, wine tastings, restaurant openings, cooking classes, shopping for specialty spices; she’s keen to do it all.

What Others Are Saying

  1. Diana May 14, 2013 at 6:19 pm

    I will love to follow your journey!!! Cebiche by the sea..love it! Can ‘t wait to read more!!!

    • Janice
      Janice May 20, 2013 at 1:15 pm

      Thanks Diana, it’ll be tasty reading, that’s for sure!

  2. Rita May 14, 2013 at 7:50 pm

    That cebiche! Wow! I’m going to have to stop at the beach before I visit the mountains of Peru.

    • Janice
      Janice May 20, 2013 at 1:17 pm

      Definitely, Rita, the coast has a life of its own. Add the jungle to your itinerary if you can as always. That way you’ll get a taste (pardon the pun) of Peru’s three distinct regions. Have a blast, and let me know if I can make any recommendations.

  3. Killer Tomato
    Killer Tomato May 16, 2013 at 10:41 am

    Woohoo! Looking forward to your interview. I love raw fish in all its culinary iterations. Great article!

    • Janice
      Janice May 20, 2013 at 1:19 pm

      Thanks Roger! I’m totally with you on all things raw fish. I hope you enjoy the interviews, and that perhaps you add a few restaurants to your travel hit list.

  4. The Travelling Chopsticks May 18, 2013 at 1:42 am

    I too will be looking forward to following your journey! 2 month ago, I got married in Peru to a Limeñian and over the years of visiting his home town, I have been completely seduced by the wonder that is Peruvian cuisine! It is the only food that comes close to being as exciting and diverse as Singaporean food (which will always be number one in my heart!).

    • Janice
      Janice May 20, 2013 at 1:24 pm

      Fantastic! Cheers! Will this perhaps spark a ‘chicken rice vs. lomo saltado cook-off at home? As you know, there’s a huge part of Peruvian cuisine influenced by Chinese cuisine: CHIFA. It may be a good middle ground. More so, the similarities I’ve found between Singaporean and Peruvian food, aside from the bounty of seafood (for coastal Peruvian cuisine, anyway), is the results due to cultural overlap and ‘natural fusion’. Sinagaporeans and Peruvians alike eat nose-to-tail, love street food, eat family style, and go for guts and glory.

  5. Margarita May 18, 2013 at 11:20 pm

    I am from Peru and your description of our ceviche is superb! Congratulations!
    Love the photos.

    • Janice
      Janice May 20, 2013 at 1:26 pm

      This is music to my ears, Margarita, thanks! I’ll try to post a recipe from one of the chef’s I’m interviewing. Stay tuned for the next post n two of Lima’s cebicherias. I’d like to hear what you think, and if you’ve been to either one of them.

  6. Yukari Sakamoto May 21, 2013 at 1:26 pm

    Loving the photos and description of cebiche! I want to get on an airplane pronto and fly to Peru! Muchas gracias for this lovely piece.

    • Janice
      Janice May 30, 2013 at 8:42 am

      Muchas gracias a ti, Yukari! I’m glad you enjoyed it. Stay tuned for Daniel Chavez’s upcoming interview!

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