Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Sometimes it takes a great chef to come up with the simplest and most elegant solutions. Like blowtorching a prime rib before slow-roasting it at low heat for several hours. But I’m getting ahead of myself. Let me backtrack a bit.

As you all know, my voraciously literary wife S and I are avid cookbook collectors. For the both of us, there’s perhaps nothing better than spending an afternoon browsing the shelves at one of our favourite bookstores, especially if that store specializes in cookbooks. On a recent visit to 25 degree Celsius, Singapore’s only cookbook specialist, S and I went a tad nuts, picking up several fantastic hardbacks, including Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck Cookbook and Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc at Home.

We love Ad Hoc at Home and can only hope to one day make the trip back to Napa Valley in order to taste some of the dishes featured in this book first hand. In the meantime, though, we’re happily cooking our way through this magnificent book. One of the really great things about all of Keller’s books is that the recipes — at least all the ones we’ve tried — all work. Now, some of you might be saying to yourself, “Well, duh, it’s a cookbook. Of course the recipes work.” But the sad reality is that far too many cookbooks contain inaccurate recipes that just leave home users frustrated and annoyed. Keller’s books, on the other hand, are fabulous in that the recipes have been tried and tested and, with perhaps the exception of Under Pressure, are all achievable by any home chef that follows the instructions properly.

There are a lot of marvelous recipes in Ad Hoc at Home. Keller’s buttermilk fried chicken is an instant classic and the kind of dish you’ll be cooking for decades. Another is his prime rib roast. When I first saw this recipe, I flipped out. Then I flagged the page (S is kind of fanatical about us using small post-its to flag recipes we intend to try out) and waited for an opportunity to make this gorgeous and fun-looking dish.

In order to make a beautifully tender and delicious prime rib roast, Keller suggests first blowtorching the meat, sealing the juices in, browning the surface and especially any exposed areas of fat. He then slow-roasts the meat at a low temperature, ensuring that the beef cooks evenly and stays moist and tender. The whole process, when you think about it makes perfect sense. Torching the meat kickstarts the cooking process in just the right way. And it is damn fun to grab a torch and go pyro on a big hunk of steak.

Keller recommends purchasing a two rib cut, which we did, picking up a beautiful, aged Angus prime rib from our favourite local butcher, Huber’s. I decided to salt and pepper the meat liberally a day before cooking it. Salting it this way means that the salt will be able to penetrate throughout the meat, as opposed to just adding flavour to the surface of the roast. After rubbing it with a healthy amount of salt and pepper, I wrapped the beef up in plastic wrap and popped it in my walk-in chiller overnight. Before cooking it the next day, I made sure to take the beef out and let it return to room temperature.

I followed Keller’s instructions, preheating my oven to 140 degrees Celsius, and placing the prime rib on a roasting rack set on a roasting pan. Then the fun part. I broke out my handy blowtorch and went to town on my meat. One word of caution. Fat is pretty flammable and if you get a tad too enthusiastic (which I did), don’t be surprised if the beef bursts out into flame in certain spots. Be sure to brown the meat all over.

Then pop the beef into the oven for around two hours or (if you have an oven probe for the meat) until the beef’s internal temperature reaches 51 degrees Celsius. Take the roast out and let it rest in a warm spot for around 30 minutes before carving and serving. To serve, cut the ribs away from the rest of the meat, then separate the two ribs. Then slice the meat in half lengthwise. Cut each half portion into small slices and serve with whatever sauces catch your fancy.

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Posted by Chubby Hubby

9 cooks in the kitchen »

    Kitty Says:
  1. That’s some flame coming off that steak. Great idea although I might be too scared to try this myself

    Posted by: Kitty | 18 November 2009 @ 6:49 pm

  2. JJ Says:
  3. Keller rocks! I made the fried chicken for friends and they all loved it. Took a lot of time and effort but it was really worth it.

    Posted by: JJ | 18 November 2009 @ 6:52 pm

  4. DC Says:
  5. Looks awesome, CH! Great job there. I was considering getting Keller’s Ad hoc the other day. I now know what to do!

    And yes, that blow torch is one of the best on the market. I’ve one too!

    Posted by: DC | 18 November 2009 @ 10:54 pm

  6. Lisa Says:
  7. A blowtorch also comes in handy when you need to make creme brulee in bulk.

    Posted by: Lisa | 18 November 2009 @ 11:12 pm

  8. 2-minute Noodle Cook Says:
  9. Couldn’t help wandering whether this is the perfect finish (blow torch) to Neil Perry’s 75 deg C slow roasted beef rib. Can someone tell me blow torching works in reverse? I wouldn’t want to ruin hours of slow roasting at the last minute :). Also can beef be aged in the home fridge safely over 2-3 weeks? I feel comfortable with 3 day salt cure…

    Posted by: 2-minute Noodle Cook | 21 November 2009 @ 8:28 am

  10. Matthew Says:
  11. Hope you bought the new “cheap” cover version of the fat duck book rather than the identical inside gray covered one which is 3x the price !!!!. Been wavering on ad-hoc but think you have swayed my decision.

    Posted by: Matthew | 2 December 2009 @ 7:32 pm

  12. jacki Says:
  13. why not torch the prime rib in the oven at a high temperature for 30 minutes before lowering the temperature to 200 and cooking for 2 hours?

    Posted by: jacki | 23 December 2009 @ 9:19 am

  14. Sherwin Says:
  15. Thanks for posting this CH. Got Ad Hoc today and am inspired to try this recipe too. Could you tell me where you got your blow torch from?

    Posted by: Sherwin | 23 December 2009 @ 6:49 pm

  16. Hannah David Says:
  17. I think I’m giong to have to pick this book up for myself. I must try this buttermilk fried chicken you speak of.

    Posted by: Hannah David | 6 July 2010 @ 1:15 pm

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Because I get emailed this question pretty often, I thought I'd share what camera gear I use. My current favourite camera is the new Panasonic Lumix GF1. With it, I've been using the 20mm 1:1.7, the Leica 45mm 1:2.8, and the 7-14mm 1:4.0. The Leica 45mm especially is an amazing lens that pairs superbly with this amazing new system. In many ways, for my use, the new micro four-thirds GF1 is the perfect package. It's small, sexy, takes amazing pictures and has awesome lenses. I also own a few DSLRs, but use the GF1 more often these days. When traveling,I also often carry the Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX2, a great compact travel camera.








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