Sydney is going through a restaurant resurgence; there seems to be a refresh and revival in the dining scene. The vibe, one that’s more casual, more relaxed, flexible. Increasingly, more inviting establishments are propelling well-known chefs to take different risks and reinvent themselves. One such place, led by executive chef Martin Boetz (previously from Sydney and Melbourne’s famed Longrain Thai restaurants) alongside head chef Kasper Christensen, is Rushcutters.
Martin Boetz, tapping into his German origins, has created a robust, heartening European menu for both the deli and the dining areas of Rushcutters. The restaurant’s space is so big that the use of different sections for different dining experiences is clever; there’s an option for everybody.
The deli and bar, open daily from 7am until midnight – an odd occurrence for Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs – offers breakfast and brunch dishes, smoked meats, salads, pretzel buns, and sandwiches made with produce sourced from Boetz’s farm The Cook’s Co-op. There is a small section with food to-go where you can also purchase fresh milk, free-range eggs, and bread from The Cook’s Co-op. Farm fresh and paddock to plate? That’s plenty to hook a customer.
The dining room, open for dinner from Tuesday to Sunday, serves food designed for sharing. From house smoked mackerel with horseradish, to fried sardines with roasted tomatoes and almonds, the appetizers are flavourful and complex. The main dishes, clearly of more Germanic influence, include corned veal brisket, schnitzel, and lamb shanks. Filling and hardy, yet presented with great balance.
For dessert, a treat of blackcurrants, white chocolate, and lavender, is a refreshing sweet ending; however, when in continental European territory, it’d be wrong not to order a portion of the strudel which is lightly spiced, filled with raisins, topped with nuts, and served with smooth ice cream.
The service is attentive and very kind, the atmosphere inviting, especially in the deli section, which, if frequented at night, evokes a smooth local bar vibe, a delightful way to end a day. I’m definitely ready to return one morning for another smoked trout pretzel bun and a cold-pressed juice, or perhaps in the afternoon to enjoy a grapefruit Campari alongside crispy fish cakes.
10 Neild Avenue, Rushcutters Bay
New South Wales 2011, Australia
Tel. +61 2 9326 9348